A Taste of New Mexico Kitchens (2024)

The Project Gutenberg EBook of New Mexico Magazine's A Taste of New Mexico*kitchens, by AnonymousThis eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and mostother parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictionswhatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms ofthe Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online atwww.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll haveto check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.Title: New Mexico Magazine's A Taste of New Mexico KitchensAuthor: AnonymousRelease Date: September 24, 2020 [EBook #63283]Language: EnglishCharacter set encoding: UTF-8*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TASTE OF NEW MEXICO'S KITCHENS ***Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Lisa Corcoran and the OnlineDistributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net

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CONTENTS

MAIN COURSES

FRIJOLES 3

FRIJOLES 4

FRIJOLES REFRITOS 4

CLASSIC NEW MEXICO RED ENCHILADAS 5

GREEN CHILE ENCHILADAS 5

CHICKEN SOUR CREAM ENCHILADAS 6

POSOLE SANDOVAL 6

THE SHED’S POSOLE STEW 7

POSOLE ORTIZ 8

DELLA’S TACOS 8

CHICOS 9

QUELITES 9

CHALUPAS EL PARAGUA 10

ARROZ CON POLLO 10

CALABACITAS 11

HUEVOS RANCHEROS 12

RED CHILE BURRITOS 12

GAZPACHO NEW MEXICO 13

TAMALE PIE 13

CHILE PIE 14

CHILE

PREPARING FRESH CHILE 15

GREEN CHILE SAUCE 15

THE OWL BAR’S GREEN CHILE 15

GREEN CHILE STEW 16

RED CHILE SAUCE I 17

RED CHILE SAUCE II 17

SALSA 18

PUEBLO RED CHILE STEW 18

GREEN CHILE SOUFFLE 19

FAVORITE FOODS

TOSTADOS 20

NACHOS 20

CHILE CON QUESO 20

BILL’S GUACAMOLE 21

CHUNKY GUACAMOLE 21

ROSWELL BEAN DIP 22

AVOCADO SOUP, LAS CRUCES 22

BREADS

FLOUR TORTILLAS 23

QUICKIE TORTILLAS 23

SOPAIPILLAS 24

HONEY BUTTER 24

CHILE BREAD 24

NAVAJO FRY BREAD 25

BLUE CORN BREAD 26

PAN DE LA REINA 26

DESSERTS

EMPANADITAS 27

PINK ADOBE FRENCH APPLE PIE 28

HARD SAUCE 28

BAKED EMPANADAS 29

BISCOCHITOS 29

PIÑON COOKIES 30

PIÑON FUDGE 30

DRINKS

RANCHO DE CHIMAYO co*ckTAIL 31

ROSALIE’S APRICOT BRANDY 31

GLOSSARY 32

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INTRODUCTION

New Mexican cooking is unique to New Mexico. Stackedenchiladas topped with an egg and smothered in pungentred sauce, tender sopaipillas, rich and meaty posole stew,green chile, and blue corn tortillas. These dishes havebeen mainstays of New Mexicans for generations, some remainingclassics and some having changed with time, butall retaining their original essence.

In New Mexico Magazine’s The Best from New Mexico*kitchens, we give you a big helping of good New Mexicocooking from Indian-Spanish basics to haute cuisine. Inour second cookbook, More of the Best from New Mexico*kitchens, we offer variations on classic New Mexico dishes,forgotten favorites of the pioneers, and familiar recipeswith new twists. They range from the supremely simple tomore sophisticated versions. We have specialties from restaurantsbig and small—places you may have visited yourself—andfrom good cooks all over the state.

As a special premium for new subscribers to NewMexico Magazine, we have put together A Taste of NewMexico Kitchens, a small sampling of favorite New Mexicanrecipes from both cookbooks. We want to share theserecipes with you—the subscribers of New MexicoMagazine—with our compliments.

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FRIJOLES

One would think that a boiled bean is a boiled bean. But it’s not thatsimple, of course. Each cook thinks his or her way is the best—andonly—method.

Those who advocate the overnight soak will do it this way: Take 2cups of dry pinto beans, pick them over, and wash them. Cover withcold water and soak overnight. Drain and rinse well. Put in a largepot with about 8 cups of water and 2 tablespoons of lard. Bring toa boil and simmer gently, covered, for about 1½ hours, then test fortenderness. Stir in 2 teaspoons of salt. Depending on how long thebeans were soaked and how high your altitude is (the temperatureat which things boil goes down as altitude goes up), you may haveto cook the beans for up to another hour, adding more water if needed.Serve beans, broth and all, in bowls. Top with red or green chile salsa.

Most people do it this way: Pick over the 2 cups of dry pinto beansand wash them. Put beans, 8 cups of water, and 2 tablespoons of lardin a big pot. Some folks like to add 2 cloves of garlic. Bring to a boil,cover, and simmer for 2 hours, 2½ if you are at a high altitude. Stirin 2 teaspoons of salt. (If you add salt too early in the cooking, yourbeans will be too tough.) Continue cooking, adding water as necessary,until beans are tender. Serve as above.

Another way to cook your pinto beans is in the pressure cooker. Pickover 2 cups of dry pinto beans and wash them. Put beans, 8 cupsof water and 2 tablespoons of lard into a large pressure cooker. Bringto a boil and boil gently for 10 minutes without the lid on. Removefrom heat, cover, and let the beans stand for about 2 hours, or untilan hour before you intend to eat. Add 2 teaspoons salt, cover andbring the pressure up to 15 pounds. Cook for 10 minutes (15 or moreat high altitudes). Allow pressure to drop normally. Serve as above,and think of the energy you’ve saved.

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FRIJOLES

This is the basic bean recipe.

Wash beans well, cover with water and soak overnight. Drain.Put beans, water, garlic and salt pork—but not salt—in alarge heavy kettle. Cover tightly, bring to a boil, and simmerfor about 1½ hours or until the beans are tender but notmushy. Add boiling water during the cooking if necessary andstir occasionally. When the beans are done, remove lid, turn upheat and cook until all liquid has been absorbed. Add salt totaste.

FRIJOLES REFRITOS

Many people think that beans are at their best on the second day,when they are served as refried beans. Philomena, who has a well-knownrestaurant of the same name in Los Alamos, recommends thisclassic method. To 2 tablespoons bacon drippings add 2 cups day-oldcooked pinto beans. Use a potato masher for mashing and stirringbeans as they fry. When beans are thoroughly hot, add 4 cupgrated cheddar or jack cheese. Continue stirring until cheese hasmelted. Serve hot. Some New Mexicans also like to fry a small mincedonion in the fat before adding the beans. Whatever method you usethe resulting dish is delicious.

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CLASSIC NEW MEXICO RED ENCHILADAS

Fry tortillas in oil until soft and drain on paper towels. Heatchile sauce. Layer tortillas on serving plates, topping each withgrated cheese and minced onions and sauce. Stack 3 perserving plate and top with cheese and sauce. Put plates in ovento allow cheese to melt. Meanwhile, fry eggs in remaining oil.Top each enchilada stack with a fried egg. Serve immediately.Serves 4.

GREEN CHILE ENCHILADAS

Heat the tortillas on a hot griddle and keep warm under a teatowel. Heat the garlic in the oil, then discard garlic. Blend flourinto oil. Stir in green chile sauce (see page 15 for recipe) andheat thoroughly. If mixture is too thick, add water. Add salt totaste. Layer tortillas with sauce, minced onion and cheese onovenproof plates. Sprinkle cheese on top. Place in oven toallow cheese to melt. Serves 2. For a real New Mexico touch,place a poached or fried egg on top. The egg has the quality ofmelding all the flavors.

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CHICKEN SOUR CREAM ENCHILADAS

Heat tortillas on a hot griddle and keep warm under a teatowel. Or heat the tortillas in oil and drain well on papertowels. Mix one cup of the chile sauce (see page 15 for recipe)with the chicken. Put ¼ cup of the chicken mixture on eachtortilla and roll it up. Place in an oblong baking dish. Cover theenchiladas with the grated cheese. Add the onion, if desired,and salt to taste to the remaining chile sauce and pour over theenchiladas. Bake at 350 degrees F for about 20 minutes.Smother with sour cream and return to oven for 10 minutes, oruntil everything is hot. Serve immediately. Serves 6.

POSOLE SANDOVAL

Posole is whole hominy, and in New Mexico it is cooked with porkinto a thick stew. The first time you taste it, you may be unimpressed.The second time, well, you think that perhaps another helping wouldgo down well. The third time—you’re hooked. Like the rest of us,you won’t think that Christmas Eve or a feast day of any kind is completewithout a big bowl of steaming posole. Richard C. Sandoval,who grew up in Nambé, prepares his holiday posole this way. Richarduses frozen posole, but if you can’t find that, perhaps you can finddried posole. Failing that, you might make do with canned hominy,which, of course, won’t need to cook as long as the other varieties.But, as Richard points out, it won’t taste as good, either!

Rinse posole well. Put posole, oregano, and chile pods in a large pot.7Add cold water to about 2 inches above the corn. Heat to a boil andcook for 20 minutes. Add the meat, reduce heat, and simmer for about3 hours, until meat is cooked and kernels are soft but not mushy.(You might need less time at lower altitudes than Santa Fe’s.) Stir frequentlyand add water as needed. Salt to taste at end. Serve in bowlsand pass the chile sauce. Or use as an accompaniment to a dinnerof enchiladas, tamales, frijoles, and chiles rellenos.

THE SHED’S POSOLE STEW

Cook the pork in a pressure cooker, with water to cover, for 20minutes. Reduce pressure under cold water. Open pot and addposole, lime juice and chile. Add water—about twice as muchas the amount of posole. Cook for 45 minutes under pressure.Reduce pressure under cold water. Remove the pork and cutup. Put posole, pork, garlic, oregano and salt in a large, heavycovered pot and simmer for 1 to 3 hours, or until hominykernels have burst and are soft but not mushy. Serve alone oras a side dish. Freezes well. Note: These times are set forSanta Fe’s high altitude. At lower altitudes, where the boilingpoint is higher, you may wish to try shorter cooking times atfirst.

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POSOLE ORTIZ

Everyone has his own special recipe for posole. This is the wayWillie and June Ortiz prepare it at La Tertulia in Santa Fe—andgood it is.

Mix all ingredients in a large, heavy pot. Bring to a boil andsimmer, covered, for about 2½ hours or until the kernels aresoft but not mushy. Salt to taste. Serves 4.

DELLA’S TACOS

Della’s Spanish Dining Room in Farmington is one of the mostpopular restaurants in northwestern New Mexico. But DellaChávez throws up her hands in dismay and laughs at the ideaof writing down her recipes. One must watch to see how it isdone, she says. This is how she prepares her tacos.

Take ground chuck and brown it in the frying pan, draining offexcess fat. One pound of meat will probably fill six tortillas.Season the meat with salsa—made with chopped peeledtomatoes, garlic, salt, chopped onions, chopped red chiles.(The quantities, Della implies, will depend on one’s own taste.)

When the meat is ready, warm tortillas on a grill. Place in abowl and cover with a towel. They’ll steam themselves soft.Fold the tortillas in half and stuff with meat. Pin with woodentoothpicks.

Fry the tacos in very hot deep fat (perhaps 375-400 degrees F)for just a minute. Turn over, then remove and drain. Removetoothpicks and stuff with grated longhorn cheese (perhaps ahalf pound for 6 tacos), shredded lettuce and finely choppedtomatoes, in that order. Serve.

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CHICOS

Chicos are sweet corn kernels that have been dried and savedfor winter. This dish is popular in the Spanish-speakingvillages of northern New Mexico.

Wash chicos and soak overnight. Drain and cover with 5 cupsof water. Bring to a boil and simmer for about an hour. Meanwhile,cut pork in 1-inch cubes and fry until brown. Drain fat.Stir in a cup or 2 of water (to gather up the flavorful bits at thebottom of the pan). Pour meat, garlic, oregano, washed andcrushed chile pods, salt to taste and remaining water in withchicos. Cover and simmer for 2½ hours or until chicos aretender. (Or use the pressure cooker and cook for about 1 hour.)Serve in soup bowls. Serves 6.

QUELITES

If you have access to wild spinach, that’s really what youshould use in this recipe. But most people make do with the“tame” kind.

Wash spinach well, chop and steam about 10 minutes or untiltender. Saute the onion in shortening, mix in drained spinach,chile and salt, and cook for an additional 5 minutes. Serves 2to 3.

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CHALUPAS EL PARAGUA

In Española’s El Paragua, Luis and Frances Atencio makechalupas this way.

Fry the tortilla and place on an ovenproof plate. Spread withrefried beans, then chicken, then cheese. Slide under broiler tomelt cheese. Quickly cover with guacamole (mashed seasonedripe avocado), lettuce, tomato cut in bits, and sour cream.Decorate with black olives and Bermuda or Spanish onionrings. Dust cream with paprika. Serve immediately. Serves 1.

ARROZ CON POLLO

This traditional Spanish recipe is one that Scottie King has adaptedand serves often to her delighted guests. As Scottie points out, thedish can be prepared ahead of time, as it improves with standing. Thisamount serves 4, but the recipe can easily be doubled.

Put chicken in a large pot with boiling water and ½ teaspoon of thesalt. Cover and simmer for 20-30 minutes (40-50 if it’s a fowl). Meanwhile,mix onions, garlic, and rice. Heat olive oil in a large heavy skillet,add rice mixture, and stir until oil is well mixed in. Cover and fryVERY gently for 10 minutes. Stir frequently and take great care mixturedoes not brown. Add remaining salt, paprika, pepper, parsley,bay leaf, and saffron to chicken pot. Add such optional seasoningsas you like, correct salt if need be, then spread rice mixture over thetop of chicken. Cover and simmer gently until rice is soft and chickenis tender when pierced with a fork—from 40 to 60 minutes. Add thepimientos just before serving. Serves 4.

CALABACITAS

This is one of the most popular vegetable dishes in NewMexico and deserves to be better known in the rest of thecountry. It’s delicious!

In a large heavy skillet, saute the onion, garlic and zucchini inoil. Discard the garlic. Mix in drained corn, chopped chiles andsalt. Cover tightly and heat through. Mix in cheese and serve.Serves 4.

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HUEVOS RANCHEROS

Everyone has a special way of preparing huevos rancheros.This suggestion comes from New Mexico State University.

Heat chile sauce in shallow frying pan. When hot, slip eggs intosauce from small dish or saucer, being careful not to breakyolks. Cover and simmer over very low heat until eggs arepoached to desired firmness. Serve on warm plates withremaining sauce poured over eggs. Sprinkle with cheese.Serves 2. Use canned sauce or your own mixture. For recipes,see pages 15 and 17.

RED CHILE BURRITOS

From Angie M. García comes another of her specialties—thebeloved burrito.

Mash beans and season with garlic salt to taste. Fry in baconfat. Heat tortillas on ungreased griddle and cover with towel tokeep warm. Spoon hot bean mixture down the center of eachtortilla, roll, and place 2 on each serving plate. Pour heated redchile sauce over burritos and top with cheese and onions.Serves 6.

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GAZPACHO NEW MEXICO

A delectable and cooling “liquid salad” from Spain—with aspecial New Mexico touch.

Dice half the tomatoes, being careful not to lose any of thejuice, half the cucumber, half the onion, half the pepper. Setaside in a large bowl or pitcher. Put the remaining tomatoes,cucumber, pepper and onion into a blender, along with thegarlic, olive oil, vinegar, tomato juice, salt to taste and greenchile. Blend for a few seconds. Pour into container withchopped vegetables. Mix well, cover and chill thoroughly.Serve with 2 or 3 ice cubes in each bowl. Sprinkle with garliccroutons or serve with hot garlic bread. Serves 6 to 8.

TAMALE PIE

This particular version is the specialty of a young Gallup girl whoadapted it from an aunt’s recipe.

Heat meat with gravy, chile sauce, onion, and corn and season totaste. Meanwhile boil stock or water and stir in cornmeal. Cook, stirringover low heat until mush is thick. Turn meat mixture intocasserole and top with spoonfuls of cornmeal mush evenly distributedover surface. Bake at 350 degrees F for about 40 minutes.

CHILE PIE

Not really a “pie,” this is more like a quiche without a crust.Delectable as a main dish for lunch, it could also make a lightsupper. And how about doubling the recipe, making it in arectangular baking dish, and cutting in small squares to serveat a party?

Line a buttered 8- or 9-inch pie pan with chiles (fresh, cannedor frozen). Sprinkle with the cheese. Beat eggs and combinewith half-and-half and garlic salt. Pour over cheese. Bake at325 degrees F for about 40 minutes or until the custard hasset. Cut in wedges and serve. Serves 4.

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PREPARING FRESH CHILE

Select plump fresh New Mexico-grown chile pods, either green orred. The variety of the chile will determine how hot it is. (See “Chile—NewMexico’s Fiery Soul” and the Nakayama Scale in The Best fromNew Mexico Kitchens.) New Mexico #6 and Anaheim are two of themildest varieties, and Numex Big Jim rates #3 on a scale of 10. (Thesizzling jalapeño is only #7!)

Slit pods lengthwise and remove seeds and veins, which make chilesfar too hot for most palates. Place pods on a foil-lined cookie sheetunder broiler. Or place pods on outdoor grill. Roast pods, turningfrequently so they don’t burn. When chile skins are blistered and loose,remove from fire (tongs would be handy for this) and cover with damptowels until cool. Peel skins from stem downward. Chiles are thenready to use or to freeze for the future. If you want to save your ownskin from being blistered by the chiles, you had better wear thin rubbergloves while you work.

GREEN CHILE SAUCE

Saute garlic and onion in oil in heavy saucepan. Blend in flour withwooden spoon. Add water and green chile and mix well. Add salt.Bring to a boil and simmer, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes.

THE OWL BAR’S GREEN CHILE

The Owl Bar & Cafe in San Antonio, south of Socorro, has becomeworld renowned—literally!—for its huge, juicy hamburgers. (It’s beenfeatured in New Mexico Magazine, TWA’s Ambassador Magazine andthe Washington Post.) But the cafe is also known for its atmosphereand its green chile. The secret, says Rowena Baca, the owner, is in16the simmering.

Roast, peel, and dice green chile. In a heavy skillet, brown the meatand drain excess fat. In large heavy saucepan, cover chile and garlicwith water and bring to boiling point. Mix in the meat and simmer,tightly covered, for at least 3 hours. Add salt to taste.

GREEN CHILE STEW

Rosella Frederick of Cochití is known for her good cooking.One of her specialties is her green chile stew. For feast days,she usually makes enormous pots of stew outside over an openfire in order not to heat up her spotless kitchen. She has cutdown her recipe to family size for us.

Cut the meat up into very small pieces—about 2-inch cubes—andbrown in a little oil in a large, deep heavy pan. Add theonions. Peel and dice the potatoes and brown them with themeat. (Rosella does not flour the meat because it makes thestew too thick for her family’s taste.) When the meat and onionand potatoes (if used) have been browned, drain off any excessfat. Add the zucchini, if used, the chiles, garlic salt, salt andwater. Bring to a boil and simmer for at least a half hour. Ladleinto bowls and serve with homemade bread. The stew shouldbe eaten with a spoon, like a hearty soup. Serves 6.

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RED CHILE SAUCE I

This is Mark Nohl’s traditional recipe made from whole dry red chilepods, the kind that hang on every door-side ristra in New Mexicoor are bought in big plastic bags at supermarkets and roadside stands.

Wash and remove seeds, stems, and white veins (the more seeds andveins you leave in, the hotter the sauce will be). Place pods in a largekettle and cover with boiling water. Cook the pods until they becomeplump and tender. Remove pods and run them through your blenderor processor (in the old days they used a food mill or fruit press). Strainthe mixture to remove pieces of skin and stray seeds. Add some ofthe water you used to cook the pods in order to get the consistencyof tomato paste. To this add 3 tablespoons fat, several cloves of mincedgarlic, 1 teaspoon dried oregano, and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring sauce toa boil, reduce heat, and simmer for about 45 minutes. This is yourbasic red chile sauce and is the smoothest you can make. To this youcan add pinto beans, meat, onions, or tomatoes to construct yourfavorite New Mexico recipes, or use as is to go over burritos or enchiladaplates.

RED CHILE SAUCE II

Saute the garlic in oil. Blend in flour and chile powder quickly witha wooden spoon. (Be careful not to burn the chile.) Blend in waterand cook to desired consistency, adding more water as desired. If youhave stock instead of water, so much the better. Add salt to taste.

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SALSA

Use fresh chiles (roasted, peeled and seeded) or frozen orcanned chiles. Chop the chiles, tomatoes and onion very fine.(Don’t lose the juice of the tomatoes!) Mash the garlic with thesalt. Mix well. Add more chiles to suit your taste. Allow flavorsto blend at least an hour before using. Store in refrigerator orfreezer. Use on tacos, eggs or hamburgers or as a dip fortostados. Makes about 1 pint.

PUEBLO RED CHILE STEW

This recipe comes from Santa Clara Pueblo from the JosephLonewolf family.

Cut meat in 1-inch cubes. Cover with water and bring to a boilin a large kettle. Reduce heat to simmer and cook, covered,for about 4 hours. Meanwhile, peel and cube potatoes. Addpotatoes and salt and cook for 1½ hours. Measure red chilepowder and cornmeal into bowl with enough cold water tomake a paste. Stir slowly into stew. Mix in well, to thickenbroth. Simmer for a half hour, then keep warm. TheresaLonewolf figures on serving about 75 people on a feast day,but of course not everyone eats a lot of any one dish. If thiswere the main dish at a picnic or supper, it might serve 25 to35 persons.

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GREEN CHILE SOUFFLE

This happy marriage of green chile to a souffle was engineeredby Edna Turner of Santa Fe.

Place egg whites in a 4-quart bowl and let stand at room temperature1 hour. Heat oven to 400 degrees F. Butter 1½-quartsouffle dish generously. Sprinkle bottom and sides evenly withParmesan cheese. Melt 3 tablespoons butter over low heat inheavy saucepan. Add flour and stir with wire whisk. Cook overlow heat, stirring constantly until mixture foams and bubbles.Remove from heat, add milk, and beat until smooth. Beat insalt, mustard, cayenne and Worcestershire. Return to heat andcook 1 minute, stirring constantly, until mixture is quite thick.Remove from heat and add egg yolks 1 at a time, beating wellafter each addition. Pour this mixture into a large bowl. Beategg whites with a pinch of salt until stiff peaks form. Add 1large spoonful to the egg yolk mixture and blend. Add all but 1tablespoon of the cheese and the chopped chiles (frozen, freshor canned) to the egg yolk mixture and blend well. Spoonremaining egg whites on top and fold in with a rubber spatula.Pour into souffle dish and smooth with spatula. Sprinkle remainingcheese on top. Run a silver knife in a circle about 1inch from the edge of dish. (This will enable the crown or “hat”to form when done.) Place in center of oven and reduce to 375degrees F. Bake 34-40 minutes, or until knife inserted in theside comes out clean. Serve immediately.

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TOSTADOS

Cut fresh or canned corn tortillas into triangles and deep fry inoil at 380 degrees F until they are crisp. Drain on paper towels.Sprinkle with salt. These are the original “corn chips.” Usewith dips, soups or beverages.

NACHOS

Prepare tortillas as above. While they are still hot, sprinklewith onion or garlic salt and chile powder. Or—sprinkle thechips with grated longhorn cheese, chile powder and garlicsalt, then heat in the oven until the cheese melts. Or spreadeach chip with a bit of mashed beans, season with red chilepowder or a bit of fresh chopped green chile, sprinkle liberallywith grated longhorn cheese, add a touch of garlic salt andbroil until cheese melts.

CHILE CON QUESO

Saute minced onion and garlic in butter in large heavy saucepan.Blend in flour with wooden spoon. Add milk and cheese.Stir constantly until cheese is melted and mixture is smoothand thick. If mixture seems too thick to use as a dip, blend in alittle water. Mix in the chopped green chile (fresh, frozen orcanned) to suit your taste. Serve in a chafing dish withtostados, corn chips or raw vegetable sticks to dip in themixture.

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BILL’S GUACAMOLE

Peel and pit avocados. Mash coarsely with a fork, leaving bitsof whole avocado. Stir in remaining ingredients. Serve on lettuceor as a dip with tostados.

CHUNKY GUACAMOLE

Chop all the ingredients fine. Do not mash. Use fresh roastedand peeled chiles, but, if they are not available, use canned orfrozen. Mix together with the lemon juice and add salt to taste.Serve as a dip or as a salad with lettuce and corn chips.

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ROSWELL BEAN DIP

This old favorite has a number of variations. We like this one.

Mash beans well or run through blender. Mix in sour cream andtaco sauce. Serve with corn chips or vegetable sticks. No taco sauce?Try chopped green chile. Or enchilada sauce. Or chile powder totaste. Or a minced jalapeño.

AVOCADO SOUP, LAS CRUCES

Maggie Gamboa of Las Cruces is a famous cook in southern NewMexico. Not only does she cater for parties, but she teaches cooking—includinga chile gourmet class.

Peel, seed, and chop the tomato. Place first 5 ingredients in blenderor processor and blend well. Heat this mixture in a saucepan and simmerfor a few minutes. Peel and mash avocados and stir into soup.Add sherry, salt and pepper to taste, and heat well, but do not allowto boil. Serve hot or cold. Decorate each bowl with two or three thinslices of banana for an extra touch of flavor. Serves 6.

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FLOUR TORTILLAS

Mix dry ingredients, then work in lard until mixture is crumbly. Stirin the half cup of water, adding more if needed. Knead dough on alightly floured board, then make into small balls, about the size ofan egg. Let these stand covered by a tea towel for about 15 minutes.Then roll out to the size of a salad or luncheon plate. Bake on a hot,ungreased griddle for 2 minutes. Turn and bake for 1 minute on theother side. They should have a brown-freckled surface. Use immediately,or keep warm until serving by placing between the foldsof a clean tea towel. If necessary, they may be refrigerated in plasticbags and reheated—but they’re better when they’re fresh.

QUICKIE TORTILLAS

Angie M. García recommends this as a quick and easy methodof making flour tortillas.

Use plain or buttermilk biscuits. On a floured surface, pat outeach biscuit to desired thickness—⅛ to ¼ inch. Place eachtortilla on a hot griddle (475 to 500 degrees F) and cook forabout 2 minutes. Turn and cook on the other side until done.Makes 10.

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SOPAIPILLAS

Although they are kin to fry bread and cousin to buñelos, NewMexico’s sopaipillas are unique. There’s nothing in the worldquite like these light crispy bread puffs.

Sift dry ingredients together. Work in lard and lukewarm waterto make a soft dough. Chill in refrigerator. Roll out dough on afloured surface to about ¼-inch thickness. Cut into 3-inchsquares. Deep fry in hot lard (or vegetable shortening) at 400degrees F a few at a time. Brown on each side and drain onpaper towels. Serve piping hot. To eat, poke open and pour inhoney or slather with honey butter.

HONEY BUTTER

Cream 1 cup butter or margarine. Gradually beat in ½ cup to 1cup of honey. (If your honey has begun to crystalize, you can use the larger amount.)Cover and store in refrigerator. Serve withsopaipillas. Good also on hot biscuits or toast.

CHILE BREAD

Here’s a surprising raised dough ring that will make chile lovers wakeup and sing. Glenna Rose Autrey of Santa Fe dreamed it up.

Dissolve yeast in water. Mix in 2 cups of the flour, butter, milk, sugar,salt, and egg. Beat for 2 minutes. Add enough flour to make a stiffdough. Turn onto a floured board and knead until smooth. Put ina greased bowl, turn over, and cover with a clean cloth. Put bowl ina warm place with no drafts and let dough rise until doubled—about1 hour.

Combine remaining ingredients for filling. Punch dough down androll into a 20x8 inch rectangle. Cut into four 20x2 inch strips. Spreadfilling on each strip and fold over lengthwise. Twist 2 strips together,then twist double strips together and form in a circle on greased cookiesheet. Cover with clean cloth and let rise until doubled. Brush withbeaten egg and sprinkle with chile powder. Bake at 350 degrees F for40 minutes.

NAVAJO FRY BREAD

Use either all white or half whole wheat flour. Mix flour, bakingpowder and salt. Add warm water and mix. Dough should besoft but not sticky. Knead until smooth. Tear off a chunk aboutthe size of a peach. Pat and stretch until it is thin. Poke a holethrough the middle, and drop into sizzling hot deep fat. (Lard isthe traditional shortening, but you might prefer to use vegetableoil.) Brown on both sides. Drain and serve hot. Eat withhoney or jam.

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BLUE CORN BREAD

From the northern part of the Navajo Reservation comes thisunusual recipe. Obviously the recipe is not for the averageAmerican kitchen. But it shows the remarkable ingenuity ofpeople who must use the ingredients available far from supermarkets.

The cedar ashes (really from juniper wood, locally calledcedar) should be smooth and fine. Sieve if possible. Mix theashes with hot water and remove any twigs or other bits ofrough material. Add to blue cornmeal. Pour in water gradually,adding only enough to make a soft dough. Form into cakesabout a half inch thick. Smooth the surface of the cakes withwater. Cook on a medium hot grill on each side until the cakesare done. Use like bread.

PAN DE LA REINA

Alicia Romero contributed this delicious holiday bread recipeto New Mexico Magazine many years ago.

Dissolve the yeast in warm water. Mix in 1 teaspoon sugar andjust enough flour to make a soft ball. Cover and place in awarm place to rise for at least an hour. Add the remainingflour, melted butter, salt, sugar, eggs, milk and anise seedsand mix and knead until smooth and velvety. Cover and let riseto double its original bulk. Punch down and knead slightly.Pull off small pieces, mold into balls and place in a greasedtube pan. Cover and set in warm place and let rise until double27in size. Bake at 350 degrees F until it is brown and shining.Rub the surface with melted butter.

EMPANADITAS

Rich and delectable, these mincemeat turnovers mean Christmasto many a New Mexico boy and girl. This is MarthaMontoya’s traditional recipe.

Filling

Cover well-washed tongues with water in a large kettle andsimmer until tender—about 1 hour. Cool and peel. Retain 1cup of the tongue broth. Grind meat in a grinder and place in alarge bowl. Add remaining ingredients and mix well withhands, using tongue broth to moisten. Let mixture stand whileyou prepare pastry.

Pastry

Sift flour into a large bowl and add salt and sugar. Cut inshortening. Mix in milk and water to form a soft dough. Kneaddough with hands for about 3 minutes. Form dough into ballsabout 1½ inches in diameter. Roll out on floured board. Place1 teaspoon filling on half circle of dough, folding over otherhalf circle to enclose. Pinch edges of dough together toprevent filling from leaking. Deep fry empanaditas a few at atime in moderately hot oil (350 degrees F) until golden brown,turning once. Drain on paper towels. Makes about 4½ dozenempanaditas.

Empanaditas taste best when eaten warm. They may be placedon a cookie sheet and reheated in a 300-degree F oven.

28

PINK ADOBE FRENCH APPLE PIE

And here it is, that famous French Apple Pie. Rosalea of the PinkAdobe says she has no idea how many she’s made over the years.“Thousands, hundreds of thousands, maybe millions.” Forget aboutcalories when you eat this concoction.

Work flour, lard, and salt together until crumbly. Add 6 or 7 tablespoonscold water until dough holds together. Form into 2 balls. Rollout to line and top a 9-inch pie pan. Filling: Wash, peel, core, andslice apples into pie shell. Sprinkle with lemon juice, nutmeg, and cinnamon.Spread with raisins and white sugar. Mix brown sugar, flour,and butter. Spread over contents. Sprinkle with pecans and most ofmilk. Cover with pastry, prick with fork, and brush with remainingbit of milk. Bake at 450 degrees F for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 350degrees F and bake for another 30 minutes. Serve hot with HardSauce.

HARD SAUCE

Cream the butter until light. Beat in the sugar and add 1 tablespoonboiling water. Then beat in brandy. Serve with French Apple Pie.

29

BAKED EMPANADAS

New Mexico State University’s Cooperative Extension Serviceis a gold mine of recipes. If you can’t eat deep-fried foods, youmight want to try their version of baked empanadas.

Cream butter or margarine with cream cheese until fluffy. Addflour and mix until a smooth ball is formed. Wrap well andrefrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight. Remove fromrefrigerator ½ hour before using. Roll out dough on a flouredboard to ⅛-inch thickness. Cut in approximately 3-inchrounds. Place 1 tablespoon of applesauce on each round. Foldover and seal. Flute edges. Bake at 375 degrees F 15 to 20minutes. Serve warm with a sprinkle of powdered sugar. Maybe served with ice cream if desired. (This dough is very trickyand hard to handle.)

BISCOCHITOS

This is New Mexico’s traditional cookie.

Sift flour with baking powder and salt. Cream lard with sugarand anise seeds until fluffy. Beat in eggs one at a time. Mix inflour and brandy until well blended. Turn dough out on flouredboard and pat or roll to ¼- or ½-inch thickness. Cut intoshapes. (The fleur-de-lis is traditional.) Dust with mixture ofsugar and cinnamon. Bake 10 minutes at 350 degrees F oruntil browned.

30

PIÑON COOKIES

Marian Meyer gave us this marvelous cookie recipe usingNew Mexico’s favorite nuts.

Put eggs and granulated sugar in the top of a double boilerover hot water. Beat with rotary or electric beater until mixtureis lukewarm. Remove from water; beat until foaming and cool.Add lemon rind and fold in flour and salt. Drop byteaspoonfuls onto greased and floured cookie sheets. Sprinklewith confectioners’ sugar and nuts. Let stand for 10 minutes.Bake in moderately hot oven (375 degrees F) for about 10minutes. Makes 5 dozen cookies.

PIÑON FUDGE

Melt 1 cup of the sugar in heavy pan, stirring with woodenspoon, until dark brown. Add rest of sugar and stir in milkgradually. Cook to hard ball stage (a drop forms a hard ball incold water). Remove from burner. Add vanilla. Beat untilcreamy. Fold in nuts. Pour into buttered 8-inch pan. Whenfirm, cut in squares.

31

RANCHO DE CHIMAYO co*ckTAIL

This apple co*cktail was created by Arturo Jaramillo, owner of thefamous Rancho de Chimayó restaurant. A thoroughly New Mexicandrink, it makes good use of Chimayó apples and cider.

Shake all ingredients together, chill, and serve with a wedge of NewMexico apple over the rim of the glass. Serves 1.

ROSALIE’S APRICOT BRANDY

Rosalie Howland says this is great to sip and is superb as a toppingfor vanilla ice cream.

Mix together in a glass container and store for 6 to 8 weeks in a cooldark place. Shake every other day or so, so flavors meld.

32

GLOSSARY

BiscochitoNew Mexico’s traditional cookie.

BurritoA flour tortilla wrapped around a filling of beans, meat,or both with grated cheese and chile sauce on top.

CalabacitasZucchini.

ChicosCooked sweet-corn kernels that have been dried in thesun.

EmpanaditaA deep-fried mincemeat turnover.

EnchiladasA cornmeal tortilla, either blue or yellow corn,wrapped around or layered with meat, chicken, orcheese, and covered with red or green chile sauce.

FrijolesBeans (usually pinto beans).

Frijoles refritosCooked pinto beans that have been refried.

HuevosEggs.

Piñon nutsThe nuts from the cones of the piñon tree.

PosoleWhite corn kernels that have been treated with lime tosoften the kernel’s tough outer skin to facilitate cooking;hominy.

QuelitesSpinach, including wild spinach.

SopaipillasA deep-fried bread that puffs up to resemble small pillows.

TacoA corn tortilla that has been deep fried, folded in halfto hold meat, cheese, lettuce, and tomatoes.

TamaleThick masa harina paste wrapped around a red chilesauce with pork meat filling enclosed in corn husks andsteamed before eating.

33

Also published by New Mexico Magazine

Transcriber’s Notes

• Silently corrected a few typos.
• Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.
• In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.

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